If you are a professional welder, then the Lincoln Weld Pak 100 should be a very common name for you. However, as a user of Lincoln Weld Pak 100 myself, I faced is a wire feed issue.
However, you can also find the wire feed problem in other Welders, and the solution is mostly the same. But, today, our focus will be based on Lincoln Weld Pak 100. Many difficulties, including those with the feeder relay, adapter connection, control lead liner, or trigger switch, might lead the wire not to feed.
So, how can you solve the wire feed problem in Lincoln Weld Pak 100? Well, it isn’t that difficult to solve it actually. Hence, we are today to discuss Lincoln Weld Pak 100 Wire Feed Problems and the solutions for them.
What are lincoln weld pak 100 wire feed problems?
When the Wire Feed problem occurs, the wire feed may cut in and out, causing it to pop in an unusual manner. You may believe the wire is becoming trapped, and when it does, the driving wheels of the welding machine slip.
Finally, if you choose to investigate, you will realize that the handle’s trigger component is the main problem. It’s a simple operation to take it out and replace it.
When you have an issue like this, it’s vital to investigate to figure out what’s wrong since you may wind up spending a lot of money on a new welder. Moreover, you can even up replacing different parts in your Welder without any reason.
The problem can be simply a wire feed issue, which is a fault that can be easily solved.
How to solve the lincoln weld pak 100 wire feed problems?
Down below, we will give you a step by step guide on how to solve the wire feed problems in Lincoln Weld Pak 100.
Safety: Working with a welder can be pretty risky, and it is important that you correctly follow all the safety precautions.
- Unplug your welder because you never want to do any operations while your welder is connected to a power outlet.
- Always read the instruction manual properly before you start to open any parts.
- Wear Gloves for extra safety
- Keep all the essential tools like a screwdriver, wrench, Extra fuel closed on hand.
Step 1: Opening the handle
The first step is to open the handle. You will then find collars both above and below collars which are very easy to remove; simply just remove the screws quarter turn the collar. The collar should now be opened.
When the collar is removed, carefully draw straight a variation nut instead of a standard nut, being careful not to apply any force.
If you need something additional to remove the nuts, obtain the rough section of a paper towel and wrap it around the nut before using the pliers to extract the nuts. However, as the majority of the pieces are composed of plastic, avoid using pliers, and it should only be the last resort.
You won’t need any oil since the switch mechanism relies on metal contact and clean metal, which most lubricants won’t allow for. Once you’ve gotten the handle off, you should be able to split them into two parts easily. The trigger will fall out after drawing the parts away from the sand. Because it is loaded with a spring, it may pop away from its handle a little, so be prepared for that.
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Step 2: Time to inspect
If you successfully followed the first step, you should now be able to inspect the inside. Before starting anything inside, you need to understand how the gun and trigger operate.
To begin, the trigger works by pushing a thin ring of copper forward against two exposed leads, completing the circuit throughout.
The contacts ought to be 5mm wide when the top half of the shell cannon is turned inverted, and these contacts are inserted into plastic holes and pushed together to keep them in line with the copper ring.
As you look closely at the contact’s photo, you’ll notice that the connection at the top doesn’t really sit comfortably, and the tip that is in touch is forced down into the gun’s barrel.
This usually helps to maintain the copper trigger in touch with the ring’s edge. This demonstrated that depending on how the gun was handled, and it may make contact, lag on, or even jitter off.
So, the main problem is the misalignment of the contact, which leads to the misfire of the gun. Hence, to solve this, you just need to push the connection back into its old place, and you can also add glue for a more snug fit.
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Step 3: Trigger reseat
Retrieve the trigger and place it back in its original location. Make sure the little tabs that protrude out in the back and front of the gun fit readily into the bouts of depression in the body. The spring will have some compressions, requiring a finger to be placed on the trigger to keep it in place.
After all, positing is correct. Simply just close the gun’s body. It isn’t tough to reconnect all the pieces of stuff that you have unplugged. If things do not return to normal quickly, something is wrong. This means you’ll have to go back and double-check that everything is in the right place.
Sometimes it gets difficult to maintain your finger on the trigger for an extended period of time while placing the half on top of the rifle, and it can take some time to get everything lined up correctly. After that, use one hand to securely hold the two parts together while screwing the bottom and upper collars with the other.
You are done fixing the problem.
If you have followed all the steps we have discussed so far, the Lincoln Weld Pak 100 wire feed problem should be solved by now. So, you should be able to use your Lincoln Weld Pak 100 quickly now without any trouble.
If the problem still doesn’t fix, then wired feed was never the problem in the initial place, and you need to look for other issues.
But, the fix is straightforward and quick. All you need to do is read our guide and follow each step very carefully, and your Lincoln Weld Pak 100 wire feed problem should be solved in no time.